Textile Processing & Textile-related Terms
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-A
Abrasion ResistanceThe ability of a fiber or fabric to endure surface wear and rubbing.
Air Jet Spinning
A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core
stream of fibers using compressed air.
Air Permeability
The permeablity, or the ease with which air passes through material. Air
porous ness determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the
air resistance of parachute cloth, and the effectiveness of different kinds
of air filtration media. It is also a measure of warmness, or coolness of a
fabric.
Alternating Twist
It is a texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted
in the yarn using special heating apparatus.
Aramid Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain
synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages (-NH0CO-)
attached directly to two aromatic rings.
Autoclave
Autoclave is an apparatus used for the carrying out of certain finishing
operations, such as pleating and heat setting, under pressure in a
superheated steam atmosphere.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-B
Balanced Cloth
A term that describes a woven fabric with the same size yarn and the same
number of threads per inch in both the warp and the fill direction.
Basket Weave
A variation of the plain weave in which two or more warp and filling
threads are woven side to side to resemble a plaited basket.
Beam
A cylinder of wood or metal, usually with a circular flange on each end, on
which warp yarns are wounded up for slashing, weaving and warp knitting.
Beaming
The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in preparation for
slashing, weaving or warp knitting. This process is also popularly known as
warping.
Beating-Up
The last operation of the loom in weaving. In the process the last pick
inserted in the fabric is "beat" into position against the earlier
pick, usually using a "comb- like" device called as reed.
Bicomponent Yarns
Spun or filament yarns of two generic fibers or two variants of the same
generic fiber.
Bi-directional Fabric
A fabric having reinforcing fibers in two directions, i.e., in the warp
(machine) direction and filling (cross-machine) direction.
Bleeding
Bleeding means a loss of color by a fabric or yarn when it is immersed in
water, a solvent, or similar fluid medium, as a result of improper dying or
due to use of poor quality dyes.
Blend
Blend can be defined as
a) A yarn obtained when two or more staple fibers are combined in a textile
process for producing spun yarns, or
b) A fabric that contains a blended yarn in both the warp and filling
direction.
Blending
The combining of staple fibers of different physical characteristics to
ensure a consistent distribution of these fibers throughout the yarn.
Boil Off
see Scouring(link to the term below)
Braid
a) Braid is a narrow textile band, often used as trimming or binding,
formed by plaiting several strands of yarn. The fabric is formed by
interlacing the yarns diagonally to the production axis of the material.
b) In aerospace textiles, a system of three or more yarns which are
interlaced in such a way that no two yarns are twisted around each other.
Related terms
Biaxial Braid - Braided structure with two yarn systems running in one
direction and the other in the opposite direction.
Triaxial Braid - a braided structure with axial yarns running in the
longitudinal direction.
Braid Angle
The acute angle measured from the axis of the fabric or rope to a braiding
yarn.
Braided Fabric
A narrow fabric made by crossing a number of strands diagonally so that
each strand passes alternately over or under one or more of the other
strands.
Braiding
The interwinding of three or more strands to make a cord or narrow fabric.
Break Factor
A measure of yarn strength calculated as
a) the product of breaking strength times the indirect yarn number.
b) the product of breaking strength tomes the reciprocal of the direct yarn
number.
Breaking Strength
a) It is the optimum resultant internal force that resists rupture in a
tension test.
b) The load (or Force) required to break or rupture a specimen in a tensile
test made according to a specified standard procedure.
Broadcloth
Broadcloth is a fabric so named because it was woven in widths exceeding 29
inches.
Broad Goods
Woven fabrics 18 inches or more in width.
Broken End
A broken, loose warp thread in a fabric. Broken ends can result from slubs,
knots, improper shuttle alignment, shuttle hitting the warp shed, excessive
warp tension, faulty sizing, and rough reeds, heddles, dropwires and
shuttles.
Broken Pick
Broken pick is a broken filling thread in a fabric. It can result from
excessive shuttle tension, weak yarn, or filling coming in contact with a
sharp surface.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-C
Cabled Yarn
A yarn formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.
Cabled Twist
A construction of thread, yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive
twist is in the same direction opposite the preceding twists; i.e., an
S/Z/S, or Z/S/Z construction.
Calender
It is a machine used in finishing to impart a variety of surface effects to
fabrics. A calender essentially consists of two or more heavy rollers,
sometimes heated, through which the fabric is passed under heavy pressure.
Calendering
A mechanical finishing process for fabrics used to produce special effects,
such as high luster, glazing, moiré', and embossed effects.
Carbon Fiber
It is a high-tensile fiber or whisker made by heating rayon or
polyacrylonitrile fibers or petroleum residues to appropriate temperatures.
Fibers may be 7 to 8 microns in diameter and more than 90% carbonized.
Cloth
A generic term embracing all textile fabrics and felts. Cloth may be formed
out of any textile fiber, wire, or material.
Coated Fabric
A fabric to which a substance such as lacquer, plastic, resin, rubber, or
varnish has been applied in firmly adhering layers to provide certain
properties, such as water impermeability.
Coating
The application of a semi-liquid material such as rubber, polyvinyl
chloride, or polyurethane to one or both sides of the textile material. Once
the coating has dried (cured) it forms a bond with the fabric.
Color Abrasion
Color changes in localized areas of a garment resulting from differential
wear.
Colorfastness
Resistance to fading, i.e., the ability of a dye to retain its color when
the dyed, or printed textile material is exposed to conditions or agents
such as light, perspiration, atmospheric gases or washing that can remove of
destroy color.
Composite
1. An article or substance of two or more constituents, generally, with
reinforcing elements dispersed in a matrix or continuous phase.
2. Hard or soft constructions in which the fibers themselves are
consolidated to form structures rather then being formed into yarns.
Conditioning
A process of allowing textile materials to reach equilibrium with the
surrounding atmosphere.
Cone
A conical package of yarn, usually wound on a disposable paper core.
Coning
The transfer of yarn from skeins or bobbins or other types of packages to
cones.
Converter
An individual or organization that buys greige fabrics and sells them as a
finished product to cutters, wholesalers, retailers, and others. The
converter arranges for the finishing of the fabric.
Core Spinning
The process of making a core-spun yarn. It consists of feeding the core
yarn into the front delivery roll of the spinning frame and of covering the
core yarn with a sheath of fibers during the spinning operation.
Core-Spun Yarn
A yarn made by twisting fibers around a filament or a previously spun yarn,
thus concealing the core.
Creel
A framework arranged to hold slivers, roving or yarns so that many ends can
be withdrawn smoothly and evenly without tangling.
Creeling
The mounting of supply packages in a creel to feed fiber to a process,
i.e., beaming, warping or weaving.
Crimp
a) The waviness of a fiber expressed as crimps per unit length.
b) The difference in distance between two points on an unstretched fiber
and the same two points when the fiber is straightened under tension.
c) The difference in the distance between two points when the yarn has been
removed from the fabric and straightened under specific tension expressed as
a percentage of the distance between the two points as the yarn lies in the
fabric.
Crocking
The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric as a result of insufficient dye
penetration of fixation, the use of improper dyes or dying methods or
insufficient washing and treatment after the dying operation. Crocking can
occur under either wet or dry conditions.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-D
Denier
Officially, the weight, in grams, of 9000 meters of yarn. Denier is a
direct numbering system in which the lower the numbers represent the finer
sizes and the higher the numbers the courser sizes. In countries other than
the USA, Denier is replaced by the Tex system.
Denier per filament (dpf)
The denier of an individual continuous filament or an individual staple
fiber if it were continuous.
Yarn Denier
The denier of filament yarn. It is the product of the denier per filament
and the number of filaments in the yarn.
Total Denier
The product of the denier per filament and the number of filaments in the
tow.
Denier Variation
Usually variation in diameter, or other cross-sectional dimension, along
the length of a filament or bundle of filaments. Malfunction or lack of
process control in fiber manufacturing causes denier variation.
Dent
On a loom, the space between the wires of a reed.
Dimensional Stability
The ability of textile material to maintain or return to its original
geometric configuration.
Dobby
A mechanical attachment on a loom that controls the harness to permit the
weaving of geometric figures.
Doff
A set of full packages, bobbins, spools, etc. produced by one machine.
Doffing
The operation of removing full packages, bobbins, spools, etc. from a
machine and replacing them with empty ones.
Double End
Two ends woven as one in a fabric. It may be intentional or accidental.
Drape
A term to describe the way a fabric falls while it hangs; the suppleness
and ability of a fabric to form graceful configurations.
Drawing-in
In weaving the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the
heddles and the dents of the reed.
Drop Wires
A stop-motion device utilizing metal wires suspended from warp or creeled
yarns. When a yarn breaks, the wire drops, activating the switch that stops
the machine.
Dyeing
A process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either a natural or
synthetic dyes. A partial list of dyeing methods follows
Pad Dying
A form of dyeing whereby a dye solution is applied by means of a pad or
mangle.
Pressure Dyeing
Dying by means of forced circulation of dye through packages of fiber,
yarn, or fabric under pressure.
Skein Dyeing
The dyeing of yarn, fiber, or fabric in the form of skeins, or hanks.
Yarn Dyeing
The dyeing of yarn before the fabric is woven or knit.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-E
Elastomers
Synthetic polymers having properties of natural rubber such as
stretchability and recovery.
Electrical Conductivity
A measure of the ease of transporting electric charge from one point to
another in an electric field.
Elongation
The deformation in the direction of load caused by a tensile force.
Elongation is measured in units of length (inches, millimeters) or
calculated as a percentage of the original specimen length. Elongation may
be measured at a specific load, or at the breaking point.
Elongation at Break
The increase in length when the last component of the specimen breaks.
End
An individual warp yarn. A warp is composed of a number of ends.
End Out
A void caused by a missing warp yarn.
Entering
The process of threading each warp yarn on a loom beam through a separate
drop wire, heddle, and reed space in preparation for weaving.
Extractables
The material that can be removed from textiles by means of a solvent (water
can often be a solvent).
Extraction
Removal of one substance from another, often accomplished by a solvent.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-F
Fabric
A planar textile structure produced by interlacing yarns, fibers, or
filaments.
Fabric Construction
The details of structure of fabric. These include such information as
style, width, type of weave, or knit, threads per inch in warp and fill, and
weight of goods.
Fabric Crimp
The angulation induced between a yarn and a woven fabric via the weaving,
or braiding process.
Fibers
A unit of matter, either a natural, or manufactured that form the basic
element of fabrics and other textile structures.
Fiber Number
The linear density of a fiber expressed in units such as denier, or Tex.
Filament
A fiber of an indefinite or extreme length such as found naturally is silk.
Manufactured fibers are extruded into filaments that are converted into
filament yarn, staple, or tow.
Filament Count
The number of individual filaments that make up a thread, or yarn.
Filament Yarn
A yarn composed of continuous filaments assembled with, or without twist.
Filling
In woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles
to the warp. Each crosswise length is called a pick. In the weaving process,
a shuttle, rapier, or other type of yarn carrier carries the filling yarn.
Finish
a) A substance or mixture of substances added to textile materials to
impart desired properties.
b) A process, physical, or chemical performed on textile materials to
produce a desired effect.
c) A property, such as smoothness, drape, luster, water repellency, flame
retardancy, or crease resistance that is produced by 1 and/or 2.
Finished Fabric
It is a fabric that is ready for the market, having passed through the
required finishing process.
Finishing
All the processes through which fabric is passed after bleaching, dyeing,
or printing in preparation for the market, or use.
Flame Resistant
A term used to describe a material that burns slowly, or is
self-extinguishing after removal of an external source of ignition.
Flame Retardant
A chemical compound that can be incorporated into a textile fiber during
manufacture, or applied to a fiber, fabric, or other textile item during
processing to reduce its flammability.
Flammability Tests
Procedures have been developed for access the flame resistance of fabrics.
Three common tests follow
Diagonal Flame Test
In this test for flame resistance, a specimen is mounted at a 45-°
angle and exposed to an open flame for a specific time. The test measures
the ease of ignition and the rate of burning.
Horizontal Flame Test
A test for flame resistance in which a specimen is mounted in a horizontal
holder and exposed to an open flame for a specific time to measure the
burning rate and char-hole diameter.
Vertical Flame Test
A test for flame resistance in which a specimen is mounted in a vertical
holder and exposed to an open flame for a specific time. The open flame is
then extinguished and continued flaming time and char-length of the sample
are measured.
Float
A weaving defect consisting of an end lying, or floating on the fabric
surface instead of being properly woven in.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-G
Gauge
Gauge is a generic term used for various measurement instruments such as
pressure of thickness gauges, also the thickness of a knitting needle, and
the number of wales per inch in a knitted fabric.
Gauge Wire
Used with an extra filling yarn during weaving, this type of standing wire
controls the height of fabric pile.
Geotextiles
Geotextiles is a popular term. It means manufactured fiber products made
into fabrics of various constructions for use in a wide variety of civil
engineering applications.
Glass Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is glass. These
fibers are incombustible and can tolerate heat up to 1000° F. The
fabric is, however, brittle and fracture points may develop.
Graphite Fiber
Although the terms carbon and graphite are used interchangeably, to
describe these fibers, graphite fibers are more accurately defined as fibers
that are 99+% carbonized, while the term carbon is used for any fiber
carbonized to 93 to 95 %, or more.
Greige Fabric
An unfinished fabric just off the loom, or knitting machine.
Grosgrain
A heavy fabric with prominent ribs, grosgrain has a dressy appearance and
is used in ribbons, vestments and ceremonial cloths.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-H
Hand
The tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g., softness, firmness, elasticity,
fineness, resilience and other qualities perceived by touch.
Heat Resistance
A property of certain fibers, or yarns whereby they resist degradation at
high temperatures. Heat resistance can be a quality inherent in a yarn, or
it may be imparted by additives or treatment of the resulting fabric.
Heat Setting
The process of conferring dimensional stability and other desirable
properties (wrinkle resistance and improved heat resistance) by means of
either moist or dry heat.
Heat Stabilized
A term to describe fiber, or yarn heat-treated to reduce the tendency of
the fiber to shrink, or elongate under a load, or at elevated temperatures.
Heddle
A cord, round steel wire, or thin flat steel strip with a loop, or eye near
the center through which one or more warp threads pass on the loom, so that
the thread movement may be controlled in weaving. The heddles are held at
both ends by the harness frame. They control the weave pattern and shed as
the harnesses are raised and lowered during weaving.
Herringbone
A broken twill weave characterized by a balanced ziz-zag effect produced by
having the rib run first to the right, and then to the left for an equal
number of threads.
High Modulus
A term that refers to a material with a higher then normal resistance to
deformation.
Hollow Filament Fibers
Manufactured, continuous filament fibers, having voids created by
introduction of air, or other gas in the polymer solution, or melt spinning
through specially designed spinnerets.
Homespun
Course plain-weave fabric of uneven yarns that have a handspun appearance.
Hopsacking
A course, open, basket-weave fabric that gets its name from the plain-weave
fabric of jute, or hemp used for sacking in which hops are gathered.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-I
Impregnated Fabric
A fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled,
as compared to sized or coated materials where the interstices are not
completely filled.
Industrial Fabric
A broad term for fabrics used for non-apparel and non-decorative uses. They
fall into the following classes
- Fabrics employed in industrial processes (e.g., filtration, polishing and
absorption).
- Fabrics combined with other materials to form a different material (e.g.,
rubberized fabric for hose, belting, tires, timing gears, bearings, and
electrical parts).
- Fabrics impregnated with an adhesive and dielectric compounds.
- Fabrics incorporated directly in a finished product (e.g., sales, tarps,
tents, awnings and specialty belts for agricultural machinery, airplanes and
conveyers)
- Fabrics developed for industrial use cover a wide variety of widths,
weights and construction. In many cases, they have been painstakingly
developed to meet a specific application.
Inspection
The process of examining textiles for defects at any stage of manufacturing
and finishing.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-J
Jacquard
A system of weaving that utilizes a highly versatile pattern mechanism to
permit the production of large, intricate designs and (at Bally Ribbon
Mills) shapes. The weave controls the action of one warp thread for the
passage of one pick. Each card perforation machine may carry a large number
of cards, depending upon the design, because there is a separate card for
each pick in the pattern.
Jet Loom
A shuttleless loom that employs a jet of water, or air to carry the filling
yarn through the shed.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-K
Kink
In fabrics, a place where a short length of yarn has spontaneously doubled
back on itself.
Kinking
The doubling back of a yarn on itself to relieve torque imparted by
twisting or texturing.
Knit Fabric
A structure produced by interlooping one or more ends of yarn or comparable
material.
Knitting
A method of constructing fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or
more yarns.
Warp Knitting
A type of knitting in which the yarns generally run lengthwise in the
fabric. The yarns are prepared as warps on beams with one or more yarns for
each needle. Examples Rachel (a plain or lacy knit) and Tricot (run
resistant) Knitting.
Weft Knitting
A common type of knitting, in which one continuous thread runs crosswise in
the fabric making all of the loops in one course. One example of Circular
Knitting, where the fabric produced on the knitting machine is in the form
of a tube, the threads running continuously around the fabric.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-L
Lace
Ornamental openwork fabric, made from a variety of designs by intricate
manipulation of the fiber by machine or hand.
Leno Weave
A weave in which the warp yarns are arranged in pairs with one twisted
around the other between picks of filling yarn. This type of weave gives
firmness and strength to an open-weave fabric and prevents slippage and
displacement of warp and filling yarns.
Let-Off Motion
A device for controlling the delivery and tension of the warp during
weaving.
Leveling
Migration leading to uniform distribution of dye in a dyed material.
Leveling may be a property of the dye or it may require chemical assistance.
Loom
Machines for weaving fabric by interlacing a series of vertical parallel
threads (the warp) with a series of horizontal parallel threads (the
filling). The warp yarns from a beam pass through the heddles and reed, and
the filling is shot through the "shed" of warp threads by means of
a shuttle, or other device and is settled into place by the reed and lay.
The primary distinction between different types of looms is the manner of
filling insertion.
Loom-Finished
A term describing fabric that is sold in the condition in which it comes
off the loon (see greige).
Lot
A unit of production, or group of other units, or packages that is taken
for sampling, or statistical examination, having one, or more common
properties and being separable from other similar lots.
Lubricant
An oil, or emulsion finish applied to fibers to prevent damage during
textile processing, or to knitting yarns to make them more pliable.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-M
Machine Direction
The long direction within the plane of the fabric, i.e., the direction in
which the fabric is being produced by the machine.
Manufactured Fiber
A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments) produced
from fiber forming substances which may be polymers synthesized from
chemical compounds (acrylic, nylon, polyester, polyethylene), modified, or
transformed natural polymers (cellulose-based fibers like acetate and rayon)
and minerals, e.g., glasses. The term manufactured usually refers to
chemically produced fibers to distinguish them from truly natural fibers
such as cotton, wool, silk and flax.
Melt Index
The weight in grams of a thermoplastic material that can be forced through
a standard orifice within a specified period of time.
Melting Point
The temperature at which the solid and liquid states of a substance are in
equilibrium; generally the temperature at which a substance changes from a
solid to a liquid.
Microdenier
It refers to fibers having less than 1 denier per filament, or 0.1 Tex per
filament.
Mill Run
A yarn, fabric, or other textile product that has not been inspected, or
does not come up to standard quality.
Mispick
A weaving defect in which a pick is improperly interlaced, resulting in a
break in the weave pattern.
Mock Leno
A combination of weaves having interlacing that tend to form the warp ends
into groups in the cloth. This gives the imitation of an open structure that
is characteristic of leno fabrics.
Modulus
The ratio of change in stress to change in strain following the removal of
crimp from the material being tested, i.e., the ratio of the stress
expressed in either force per unit leaner density, or force per unit area of
the original specimen, and the strain expressed as either a fraction of the
original length, or percentage elongation.
Moiré
A wavy, or watered effect on a textile fabric. It is produced by passing
the fabric between engraved cylinders that press the design into the
material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect light
differently.
Monofilament
Any single filament of a manufactured fiber, usually of a denier higher
than 14. Rather than a group of filaments being extruded through spinnerets
to form a yarn, Monofilaments generally are spun individually.
Monomer
It is the simple, unpolymerized form of a compound from which a polymer can
be made.
Mullen Bursting Strength
An instrument test method that measures the ability of a fabric to resist
rupture by pressure exerted by an inflated diaphragm.
Multifilament
A yarn consisting of many strands, as opposed to Monofilament, which is one
strand. Most textile yarns are multifilament.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-N
Narrow Fabric
Any non-elastic woven fabric, 12 inches, or less in width, having a selvage
on either side.
Natural Fiber
A class name for various genera of fibers of animal (wool and silk),
mineral (asbestos) or vegetable (cotton, flax, and jute).
Needle Loom
A high-speed narrow fabric-weaving machine (loom) that uses a needle to
insert filling across a warp. A Needle loom uses a catch cord system to make
a selvage on one edge of the weave and to return the pick after anchoring it
within the selvage.
Nylon Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is and long chain
synthetic polyamide having recurring amide groups (-NH-CO-) as an integral
part of the polymer chain.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-O
Olefin Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer composed at least 85% by weight of ethylene, polyethylene,
or other olefin unit. Olefin fibers combine lightweight with high strength
and abrasion resistance.
Orientation
In linear polymeric structures, the degree of parallelism of the chain
molecules.
Orifice
Generally, an opening. Used specifically to refer to the small holes in
spinnerets through which the polymer flows in the manufacture of fibers.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-P
Packages
A large selection of forms for winding yarn onto. Examples include A Cone,
Cheese, and pineapple package.
Pattern
a) An arrangement of form, or weaving designs; a decoration such as the
design of woven or printed fabrics.
b) A model, or guide, or plan used in making things, such as a garment
pattern.
Pick
A single filling thread carried by one trip of the weft-insertion device
across the loom. The picks interface with the warp ends to form a woven
fabric.
Pick Count
The number of filling picks per inch, or per centimeter of fabric. Pick and
End Counts are two fabric specifications needed to design a fabric.
Pick Counter
1. A mechanical device that counts the picks as they are inserted during
weaving. 2. A mechanical device equipped with a magnifying glass used for
counting picks (and/or ends) in finished fabrics.
Pirn
a) A wood, paper, or plastic support, cylindrical, or slightly tapered,
with, or without a conical base, on which yarn is wound.
b) The double-tapered take-up yarn package from drawtwisting of nylon,
polyester and other melt spun yarns.
Plain Weave
One of the three fundamental weaves plain, satin and twill. Each filling
yarn passes successfully over and under each warp yarn, alternating each
row.
Ply
1. The number of singles yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn, or
the number of plied yarns twisted together to form a cord.
2. One of a number of layers of fabric.
Polyester Fabric
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of dihydric
alcohol and terephthalic acid. They are high is strength and are resistant
to shrinking and stretching.
Polyethylene Fiber
A manufactured fiber made of polyethylene, often in monofilament form as
well as in filament form. The fibers have low specific gravity, very low
retention of moisture, the same tensile weight wet or dry, are resistant to
mildew and insects.
Polyamide Fiber
Fully imidized, manufactured fiber formed from the condensation polymer of
an aromatic anhydride and an aromatic diisocyanate. A polyamide fiber is a
high shrinkage fiber.
Polypropylene Fiber
A manufactured olefin fiber made from polymers or copolymers of
polypropylene. This is a very tough fiber with a tenacity of 8.0 to 8.5
grams/denier and a melting point of 165° C. It is so light in weight
that it floats and is highly resistant to mechanical abuse and chemical
attack.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Fiber
A fluoride containing manufactured fiber characterized by high chemical
stability, relative inertness and high melting point. The fiber has moderate
tensile strength, resistance to chemicals and the effects of high
temperature. It has very low frictional characteristics and has a slippery
hand. It works well in filtration, packaging and in combination with other
fibers in self lubricating bearings.
Prepreg
A ready to mold, reinforcing material, either fiber, fabric, or mat that is
fully impregnated with resin and in some cases partially cured. Prepregs are
then used by fabricators in laying-up and molding composites after which
curing is completed.
Primary Colors
Magenta, yellow and cyan (red, yellow, blue). These are the subtractive
primaries used when mixing dyes and paints to make other colors.
Projectile Loom
A shuttleless loom that uses small, bullet like projectiles to carry the
filling yarn through the warp shed. Fill is inserted on the same side of the
loom and a tucked selvage is formed.
Put-Up
A term used to describe how a fabric is supplied. Put-Up is usually
described in terms of length, on rolls, or bulk supplied and may have
standards as to how many "cuts" are allowed per roll, or box.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-Q
Quartz Fiber
Pure silica that has been melted and drawn into glass-like fibers. Used for
heat resistance and high dielectric strength.
Quill
A light, tapered tube of wood, metal, paper, or plastic on which the
filling yarn is wound for use in the shuttle during weaving.
Quilling
The process of winding filling yarns onto filling bobbins, or quills, in
preparation for use in the shuttle for weaving.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-R
Rapier Looms
Looms in which either a double or single rapier (thin metallic shaft with a
yarn-gripping device) carries filament through the shed. In a single rapier
machine, the yarn is carried across the fabric by the rapier. In a double
rapier machine, the yarn is passed from one rapier to the other in the
middle of the fabric.
Raw Fiber
A textile fiber in its natural state, such as silk, and or cotton as it
comes from the bale.
Rayon Fiber
A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose as well as
manufactured fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in which the
substituents have replaced not more than 15% of the hydrogen's of the
hydroxyl group. Rayon yarns may be white or solution dyed. The process
itself and the structure of the yarn regulate their strength.
Reed
A comb like device on a loom that separates the warp yarns and also beats
each succeeding filling thread against that already woven. The space between
two adjacent wires of the reed is called a dent. The fineness of the reed is
calculated by the number of dents to the inch. The more dents to the inch,
the finer the reed.
Roll Goods
It is fabric rolled up on a core after it has been produced. It is
describes in terms of weight and width of the roll and length of the
material on the roll.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-S
Sailcloth
Any heavy, strongly made woven canvas, linen, jute, polyester, nylon,
aramid, etc. that is used for sails.
Satin Weave
One of the basic weaves, plain, satin, and twill. The face of the fabric
consists almost completely of warp, or filling floats produced in the repeat
of the weave. Satin weave fabric has a characteristic smooth, luxurious
surface and has a considerably greater number of yarns in the set of threads
(either the warp or filling) that forms the face than in the other set.
Scouring
An operation to remove the sizing and tint used on the warp yarn in weaving
and, in general, to clean the fabric prior to dying.
Scrim
1. A lightweight, open weave, course fabric.
2. Fabric with open construction used as base fabric in the production of
coated or laminated fabrics.
Seamless
A term that describes a tubular knit, or woven fabric without seams, e.g.,
seamless hosiery, or seamless woven tube.
Section Beam
1. A large flanged roll upon which warp yarn is wound at the beam warper in
preparation for slashing.
2. Small flanged or unflanged beams placed side by side on the shaft of a
warp beam for further processing.
Selvage
The narrow edge of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. It is made
with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than the body of the fabric to
prevent raveling. A fast selvage encloses all, or part of the picks, and a
selvage is not fast when the filling threads are cut at the fabric edge
after each pick.
Served Yarn
In aerospace textiles, a reinforcing yarn such as graphite, or glass around
which two different yarns is wound. The intent is to protect, or compress
the yarn bundle.
Shot
The number of filling yarns per row of tufts.
Shuttle
A boat-shaped device usually made of wood with a metal tip that carries
filling yarns through the shed in the weaving process.
Shuttless Loom
A loom in which some other device than a shuttle is used for weft
insertion.
Sinker
In weaving design, a blank square indicating a filling thread over a warp
thread at the point of insertion.
Sizing
1. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the
fiber together and to stiffen the yarn to provide better abrasion
resistance.
2. The process of applying sizing compounds.
Skein
A continuous strand of yarn, fabric, or cord in the form of a collapsed
coil. It may be any specified length and is usually obtained by winding a
definite number of turns on a reel under prescribed conditions.
Slasher
A machine used to apply size to the warp ends, while transferring the warp
yarns from section beams to the loom beam.
Slit Tape
A fabric, 12 inches, or less in width made by cutting wider fabric to the
desired width.
Slub
A yarn defect consisting of a lump, or thick place on the yarn caused by
lint, or small lengths of yarn adhering to it.
Slug
A thick place in a yarn, or a piece of lint entangled in yarn, cord, or
fabric.
Spinneret
A metal disc containing numerous minute holes used in manufactured fiber
extrusion. The spinning solution or melted polymer is forced through the
holes to form fiber filaments.
Splicing
The joining together of two ends of yarn or cordage.
Staple
Natural fibers, or cut lengths from filaments. The staple lengths of
natural fibers vary from less that 1-inch, as with some cotton fibers, to
several feet for some hard fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to
definite length, from 8 inches down to 1-½ inches. The term staple
(fiber) is used in the textile industry to distinguish natural, or cut
length manufactured fibers form filament.
Static
The accumulation of negative, or positive electricity on the surface of
fibers, or fabrics because of inadequate electrical dissipation during
processing.
Stiffness
The property of a fiber, or fabric to resist bending, or to carry a load
without deformation.
Stop Motion
Any device that automatically stops a textile machine's operation on the
occurrence of a yarn break, high defect count, etc.
Strand
A single fiber, filament, or Monofilament.
Stuffers
Extra yarns running I the warp direction through a woven fabric to increase
the fabric's strength and weight.
Surfactant
A surface-active agent, i.e., a product that acts by modifying the surface
or boundary between two phases.
Swelling
In textile usage, expanding of a fiber caused by the influence of a
chemical, solvent or agent. A property often used to facilitate dying.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-T
Taffeta
A plain-weave fabric with a fine, smooth, crisp hand usually lustrous
appearance. Taffeta fabric usually has a fine cross rib made by using a
heavier filling yarn than warp yarn.
Take-up (Twist)
The change in length of a filament, yarn, or cord caused by twisting,
expressed as a percentage of the original (untwisted) length.
Take-up (Yarn in Fabric)
The difference in distance between two points in a yarn as it lies in a
fabric and the same two points after the yarn has been removed from the
fabric and straightened under specified tension, expressed as a percentage
of the straightened length.
Tape
A narrow woven fabric not over 8 inches in width.
Tear Strength
The force required beginning, or continuing a tear in a fabric under
specified conditions.
Tensile Strength
In general, the strength shown by a specimen subjected to tension as
distinct from torsion, compression or shear.
Tensile Test
A method of measuring the resistance of yarn, or fabric to a force tending
to stretch the specimen in one direction.
Tenter Frame
A machine that dries fabric to a specified width under tension. The machine
consists essentially of a pair of endless chains on horizontal tracks. The
fabric is held firmly at the edges by pins, or clips on the two chains that
diverge as they advance through the heated chamber, adjusting the fabric to
the desired width.
Tex
1. A unit for expressing linear density, equal to the weight in grams of
one kilometer of yarn, filament, fiber or other textile strand.
2. The system of yarn numbering based on the use of Tex units.
Textile
Originally, woven fabric; now applied generally to any one of the
following; Staple Fibers and filaments able to be converted into woven,
knit, or braided fabrics, or yarns made from natural of manufactured fibers.
Textile Materials
A general term for fibers, yarn intermediates, yarn, fabrics, and products
made from fibers.
Textile Processing
Any mechanical operation used to translate a textile fiber or yarn to a
fabric, or other textile material. This includes such operations as opening,
carding, spinning plying, twisting, texturing, coning, quilling, beaming,
slashing, weaving, braiding and knitting.
Texture
A term describing the surface effect of a fabric such as dull, lustrous,
wooly, stiff, soft, fine, course, etc.
Textured Yarns
Yarns that develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing.
Thermoplastic
A term used to describe a plastic material that is permanently fusible,
i.e. manufactured fibers that will soften at higher temperatures.
Thermoset
A term used to describe a plastic that, once formed, will not melt.
Thread
1. A slender, strong strand, or cord, especially one designed for sewing,
or other needlework.
2. A general term for yarns used in weaving and knitting i.e. Thread Count
and Warp Count.
Thread Count
The number of ends (wales) and picks (courses) per inch in a woven
(Knitted) fabric.
Three-dimensional Weaving
To produce three-dimensional textiles, yarns are simultaneously woven in
three directions (length, width and thickness), rather than in the
conventional two.
Throwing
The operation of doubling or twisting silk or manufactured filament yarn.
Throwster
A company that specializes in putting additional twist in yarn.
Transition Temperature
A temperature at which some radical change, usually a phase change, in the
appearance or structure of a substance occurs. I.e. melting point, boiling
point.
Traveler
A C-shaped, metal clip that revolves around the ring on a ring spinning
frame. It guides the yarn onto the bobbin as twist is inserted into the
yarn.
Twill Weave
A fundamental weave characterized by diagonal lines produced by a series of
floats staggered in the warp direction.
Twist
The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn, or textile
strand. Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm) or
turns per centimeter (tpc).
Twist, Direction of
The direction of twist in yarns and other textile strands is indicated by
the capital letters S and Z. Yarn is S-twisted if when it is held
vertically, the spirals around its central axis slope in the same direction
as in the middle portion of the letter S (i.e. to the right) and Z twisted
if they slope to the left, i.e. middle section of the Z.
Twist Multiplier
The ratio of turns per inch to the square root of the yarn count.
Twist Setting
A process for fixing the twist in yarns to deaden torque and to eliminate
kinking during further processing. This process usually involves using
steam.
Two-For-One Twister
A twister that inserts twist at a rate of twice the spindle speed.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-U
Ultraviolet Degradation
Weakening, or deterioration caused by exposure to ultraviolet rays of
sunlight, or artificial light.
Ultraviolet Resistance
Ability to retain strength and resist deterioration on exposure to
sunlight.
Undrawn Yarn
Extruded yarn (filaments), the component molecules of which are
substantially unorientated. An undrawn yarn exhibits predominantly plastic
flow in the initial stages of stretching and represents an intermediate
stage in the production of a manufactured yarn.
Uneven Dying
A fabric dying that shows variations in shade resulting from incorrect
processing, or dying methods, or from the use of faulty materials.
UV Absorbers
Polymer additives that absorb light in the UV region, or that trap radicals
produced in fiber during photoxidation.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-V
Vectran® Fiber
Manufactured fiber spun from Hoechst Celanese Vectra® liquid crystal
polymer. These fibers have high-temperature resistance, high strength and
modulus, and a high resistance to moisture and chemicals, with good property
retention in hostile environments.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-W
Warp
The set of yarn in all woven fabrics, that runs lengthwise and parallel to
the selvage and is interwoven with the filling.
Warp Beam
A large spool, or flanged cylinder around which the warp threads, or ends,
are wound in a uniform and parallel arrangement.
Warp Drawing
A process in which a number of threadlines, are orientated under
essentially equal mechanical and thermal conditions by a stretching stage
using variable speed rolls, then directly wound onto the beam. This process
gives uniform end to end properties.
Waterproof
A term applied to materials that re impermeable to water; waterproof
fabrics have all of their pores closed and are also impermeable to air and
very uncomfortable.
Water-Repellent
A term applied to fabrics that can shed water, but are permeable to air and
comfortable to wear.
Wear Test
A test for fabric wear, abrasion, flexibility, washing, crushing, creasing,
etc., in which the fabric is made into a garment, warn for a specific length
of time and then assessed for performance.
Weather-Ometer
An instrument used in measuring the weather resistance of textiles. It can
simulate various weather conditions as sunlight, rain, dew, and
thermal-shock.
Weave
A system, or pattern of intersecting warp and filling yarns. There are
three basic two-dimensional weaves Plain, twill and Satin.
Weaving
The method, or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so
that they cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric.
Webbing
Strong, narrow fabric, closely woven in a variety of weaves and principally
used for belts and straps that can withstand strain.
Weft Insertion
Any one of various methods, shuttle, rapier, water jet, etc. for making a
pick during weaving.
Width
A horizontal measurement of a material. In woven fabric, it is the distance
from selvage to selvage, and in knitted fabric, from edge to edge.
Winding
Winding is the process of transferring yarn, or thread from one type of
package to another,
Wind Ratio
The number of wraps that an end, or ends make in traversing from one side
of a wound package to the other side and back to the first side.
Woven Fabric
Generally used to refer to a fabric composed of two sets of yarns, warp and
filling, that is formed by weaving, which is the interlacing of these sets
of yarns.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-Y
Yardage
The amount, or length of a fabric expressed in yards.
Yard Goods
Fabric sold on a retail basis by the running yard.
Yarn
A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or
material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, braiding, or otherwise
intertwining to form a textile fabric.
Yarn Construction
A term used to indicate the number of singles yarns and the number of
strands combined to form each successive unit of plied yarn, or cord.
Yarn Number
A relative measure of the fineness of yarns.
Yarn Quality
Various grades of yarn designated by the producer with respect to
performance characteristics.
Yield
1. Number of linear or square yards of fabric per pound of fiber, or yarn.
2. The number of finished square yards per pound of greige fabric.
Young's Modulus
A property of perfectly elastic materials, it is the ratio of change in
stress to change in strain within the elastic limits of the material. The
ratio is calculated from the stress expressed in force per unit
cross-sectional area, and the strain expressed as a fraction of the original
length.
Textile-related Terms with
Initial-Z
Zero Twist
Twistless, devoid of twist.
Z Twist
See Twist, Direction of
Textile
Processing & Textile-related Terms 
